Weld on axle truss with removable cover
Keep you axle from bending or the tub coming lose from the center section with the truss system.
To fit the truss plates to the axle. There is a lot of fitting to get the truss on a housing.
–Preload the axle before welding by attaching a long chain at each end and putting a bottle jack inside the
third member opening.
-Pump the bottle jack so that the chain is tight and toe in the axle 1/4 inch. You
can measure this by running a straight edge (the length of the axle) across the axle face, this will give you
a guide line for how much is being toed in.
-To mount the crown piece that will wrap over the upper link tabs. Tack it into place making sure that a die
grinder will fit to the tacks so that it can be removed for more fitting later. Be sure to cover the weld that
goes around the back of the housing.
-To set up the upper link tabs, bolt together the 5/8 spacers with the upper link tabs making sure that the
hardware can come out of them before you tack weld them into place. Center both setups to the top of
the housing and tack into place.
-While the back crown piece is still in place, use a soft hammer to beat the crown around the upper link
tabs. Beating it will make a distinct mark around the edges where the material is wider and will need to be
Remove the crown piece and trim it with a die grinder.
For lower link tabs, measure from the end of the housing flange end 5 1/2 and draw a line
around the axle.
Take the lower link tabs and the 3/4 spacers, bolt them together, and center them
between the line you just drew.
Tack weld this setup to the very bottom of the housing. This can be
rotated forward to accommodate the lower link arm and the upper link arm lengths, in relation to the frame
pivots. This way you can set the proper pinion angle off of the axle.
-When fitting the gusset to the lower link tabs, be sure to keep in mind clearing the gusset for proper heim
- 14 Bolt
- Chrysler 8.25
- Chrysler 9.25
- Dana 35
- Dana 44
- Dana 60
- Dana 70
- Ford 8.8
- Gm/Dodge 11.5